It's Sunday sunshine in Sevilla

It’s finally winter, sunshine and time to turn lazy on laidback sun brunches in the Capital. As Sunday Pioneer starts it regular brunch series, MEENAKSHI RAO discovers the magic of Sevilla right in the heart of the Capital

When the lambs were being milk fed in the Australian outback, little did they know that they would be sent on an exotic journey all the way to India, to figure as the culinary mainstay of a stylish Spanish restaurant. But the newly opened Sevilla el fresco dining experience, quietly spreading its romance under a cluster of teak trees in the backyard of the Claridges Hotel at Aurangzeb Road, has made that happen, much to the delight of foodies who have just started warming up to this new Sunday brunch place, much like the Capital’s laidback winters.

Spain being the latest spotlight of Indian tourists and the well-heeled population now knowing and enjoying their paella and sangria, Sevilla has become just the place to be, not just for a laidback brunch but also for syrupy winter evenings when the towering heaters add to the warmth of the ever smiling staff and the even warmer food on the plate. Brunching, as Delhiites call the 11 am to 4 pm leisurely soiree of a Sunday outing with friends, family and lots of money — sipping away the champagnes and nibbling at food delicacies from all parts of the world — has been quite delayed this season, thanks to the temperature which has not allowed itself to fall for the mercury in uncustomary pig-headedness.

At Sevilla too, where alluringly tented gazebos are discreetly placed under the vintage trees with wanton foliage carpeting the surroundings and a stream running under your feet, the brunches have just about started. But the restaurant’s main task in its inaugural year would be competition from within — what with the Claridges Garden Brunch being Delhi’s winter showstopper for years with its live Indian counters and sunny tents spreading their magic some yards away, at a considerably lesser price.

However, that should not be an issue for Claridges’ award winning executive chef Neeraj Tyagi who has at his disposal the ever burgeoning foodies of Delhi in their experimental stage of savouring international newbies on the menu — and those are spread out at Sevilla, not the Garden Restaurant.

The magic of Spain’s chic southern city of Sevilla, where the Indian tourists have just started reaching in droves according to the Spanish city’s tourism honcho, starts here right from the well-stocked tapas and sangria bar going right down in the belly with miniature dessert portions of handsome variety. And this Mediterranean journey is not limited to the quaint paella servings customised in a miniature kadhai. Even as the correctly proportioned sangria ups makes you lazy enough to enjoy food to distraction, the mushroom croquettes served with garlic aioli and the goat cheese filled Spanish green pepper fritters rub spice and flavour with smoked eggplant caviar, chorizo crostinis and goat cheese gnocchi.

But those with animal instincts should go for fried dates wrapped in smoked bacon and served with apple mustard sauce if, that is, they are not biting into succulent pan roasted prawns and string chorizo with garlic, chilli and fresh thyme. There’s a lot of chicken too in croquettes and Iberian ham served with garlic aioli though the live Caesar and Fattoush counter and the cured meat and cheese station tells you why you should take it slow and steady. For, there is albondigas, sobrassada gnocchi and a selection of Artesian European cheeses with condiments and accompaniments to go with your bubbly if you are done with sangria.

Amid all this fare, what stands out in innovation and taste is beetroot risotto with pears and the wood-fired thin crust pizza which fires you up without the chillies in your vodka. Creamy and well-done in cherry colour the beetroot risotto sets the pace for lamb chops from the one of its kind josper grill. These lamb chops come with a very distinct favour all its own and they just melt in your mouth with their heady marination. The minute steak, corn fed chicken, Chilean sea bass and the Kalamata olive stuffed ricotta cheese steak served with a selection of sauces are no less. For those with an adventurist palate, there’s a keenly assembled fresh oyster and clam counter which sends off freshly baked oyster rolling in condiments.

By now it is 4 pm and time for dessert and some coffee. Go for the dark chocolate and Alphonso mango mousse and live chocolate soufflé. It’s light, it’s different and it goes well with coffee though a dash of Crème Brulee will be the perfect end to your Sunday time well spent, quite literally!

Source: Sunday Pioneer, 14 December, 2014