PICKWICK’S TURNS STREET SMART

King of Continental, the good old Pickwick’s has had a change of platter. MEENAKSHI RAO bites into the street smart makeover to be pleasantly surprised by the desification

As we mull over the efficacy of a celebrated and traditional continental great, high on English breakfast, tea and steak — medium to rare to fully done — should take to the Indian street food way, the wafting aroma of Karim’s type Chicken Ishtew if you please, waylays you into an unabashedly desi palate journey.

Yes, it’s Pickwick’s and it is serving Delhi’s street food as also Rajasthani specials even as its good old sizzler sits on the shelf for some loyalist to walk in. And that’s not some food festival that will go off after a while. Pickwick’s has, indeed, turned street-smart Dilliwallah and that’s the way it will stay — till the next makeover.

Those who know Pickwick’s know it is near impossible to replicate its garden view, heart of Delhi , long sofa backed cubicled traditional ambiance but the table and chair route has opened up the space, given it more of a horizon and somehow made it sunnier, and that’s not just for the coming winter.

Add to that the courage of the management to introduce desi food to this coffee shop despite having the undaunted highly reputed Dhabha just next door and you have some food for thought. “Dhabha is regular Punjabi food which has been around for years. Pickwick’s will be serving authentic Delhi street food and some maharaj-cooked Rajasthani specialities,” the property’s marketing manager Tanu Singh insists.

Delving into the Chicken Ishtew, the answer to Karim’s more famous Mutton Stew which has tickled the taste buds of celebrities old and new, you think of the goat to kukkad switch. But Delhi being more about chicken than mutton, just like Lucknow is more about mutton and not so much about chicken, it comes across as a popular switch. The flavour is just the same with the chicken flying high in familiar and tasty white gravy, making it a showstopper dish of the Pickwick’s makeover.

The other showstopper is the vegetarian fare that does not beat about the table in abject apology. The Moong Dal Palak from the Rajasthani kitchen is uniquely flavourful and has potential to draw you away from the non-vegetarian fare any day. The Sunehri Sabzi, a different take on the much abused mixed vegetable from Delhi’s myriad kitchens, gives you the reason to go with the greens. Low on oil, high on flavour and taste this veggie delight rubs katories with the spicy Marwari Kadhi even as the juicy and spicy Murgh Jehangiri Korma pulls you away from thoughts of the more traditional Lal Maas.

There are many more but the journey to the dessert round is fraught with tasty indulgence of many more from the republic of chicken spread. At this counter, it is time to forget the mousses and the mud cakes and go for some hatke desi fare — the Steamed Ginger Pudding. This succulent and absolutely delectable Adraki Halwa to give it the nearest desi name it deserves is simply out of the world and a befitting conclusion to a mouth watering platter you would love to be with — especially if you are not in the mood for a steak — rare, medium or well done!

Source: Sunday Pioneer, 3 December, 2017